After a short ride west from Valkenburg, the river known in Dutch as “de Maas” comes into view with a postcard-worthy look across the water at the (not-so-creatively named) city of Maastricht. While both sides have been developed, the historic center lies on the west bank, and that portion is ideal for a half-day trip.
It so happened that the Jeker Jazz festival was finishing up on Sunday, bathing the city in live performances that put a bounce in each step. The university-student population and constant motion of bicycles whizzing by add to the energy without being overwhelming. It remains peaceful, yet alive.
The riverbank offers an array of experiences, with “coffee shop” (they serve marijuana and reportedly no coffee) ships docked further north, a wonderful city park to the south, and picturesque skylines everywhere. Coming back into the city from the park, the preferred entry-point is Helpoort (literally “Hell gate”), the sole remaining city gate that dates back to the first half of the 13th century.
Amsterdam is the most famous city in the country, but it’s hard to imagine anything topping Maastricht in terms of scenery. The rest of the country is almost entirely flat, yet this enchanting city is nestled in a hilly region that’s beginning to explode with color as autumn sets in. The entire region is worth a visit. The locals are sometimes teased for their regional language and a dialect that’s been compared to lightly singing. It turns out they’ve just got a reason to be cheerful.
Photo Tour
Basilica of Our Lady
The Bishop’s Mill (de Bisschopsmolen)
This bakery sources ingredients locally and sustainably, even milling grains from nearby farmlands. In doing so, they share the tastes of Limburg, such as the Limburgse Vlaai pictured below, while supporting the local economy. A working mill is also on display for tourists and it was an extremely popular stop for a photo.
The unfortunate part of this visit was seeing the woman behind the counter scooping up an entire half pie when asked for a “piece.” It’s possible to sit down for an actual slice someplace next door, but when you already feel committed, and it’s only 7.5 EUR for the half, you end up carrying an awkwardly large box around the city for a while.
Up Next: 3 Countries, 1 day
What’s better than three countries in one day? Three countries at once.
Beyond being a silly tourist for a moment to take this photo, the next stop was Aachen, Germany before landing in Robertville, Belgium for the night. For now, it’s off to sleep before the last half-day in Luxembourg.