Bern, like the entire country, gets a mixed reaction. The city is small, clean, and almost charming. The contrast comes through seeing bridges over a tree-lined river, with streets full of drab, grey buildings extending outward, and the buildings themselves interrupted by vibrant flowers and painted fountains. It’s pleasing to see pristine streets and buildings in perfect condition, but the architecture may induce yawning. Bern is also located in the middle of the country, which is relatively flat, lacking the picturesque alpine environment that Switzerland is so well known for.
On the subject of the country, it’s only existed as federal entity since 1848. Prior to that, it was a confederation of independent states. Even with a revised constitution taking effect in 2000, apparently no official capital gained approval from the 26 cantons (states). The federal government is located in Bern, so it may get referred to as the “de facto capital,” but no official status is granted to one region over another. This mentality of local rule apparently permeates international politics, with Switzerland still not being part of the European Union. The main impact on visitors is the need to have Swiss francs on hand where cards are not accepted, and those francs go quickly too. After arriving from Belgium, there’s sticker shock on almost everything. This is especially true on imported products, which often suffer high tariffs.
Despite a few less-than-positive things to report, Switzerland is worth more than the few day visit. An entire week based centrally in Interlaken (literally a city between two lakes) would be worthwhile in the summer, even after having already spent a few autumn days in the country. It would be time well spent for anyone who enjoys mountains, glaciers, lakes, rivers, waterfalls, and every other natural wonder this place has to offer. Maybe there’s not much to expect from the cities, or perhaps Geneva and a full tour of Zürich would be more interesting. Either way, there’s certainly a plethora of cozy, small towns to visit amid towering mountains and green valleys. Those areas live up to the hype.
Photo Tour
Construction closed a section of railroad tracks, but a bus from Visp filled in for the expected train. An immediate connection meant no time for more of a look than this. The smooth transition to another form of transportation was a testimony to Switzerland’s excellent public transit system. There’s really no need to rent a car here.Bern’s railroad station is respectably large, with each of these coverings bridging two tracks.From Holiday Inn Express, directly across from a railroad stop west of the city center and adjacent to this shopping mall, complete with green roofs, solar panels, and the red water slide on the leftMany streets in the tourist district are lined with covered, arched walkways.Einstein developed his theory of relativity while living in Bern for two years. Now he’s regularly used as a prop for tourism.The architecture is geometric, clean, and in one observer’s opinion, boring. What makes it pretty is the splash of color in the window sills.Neat and uniform, or monotone and lacking character? Even if it’s the latter, at least there are more flower boxes.Bern ears the title “City of Fountains” with having over 100 of them in the historic center. Some are over 400 years old, and many include painted statues such as this.Flying pig sighting
Bern’s Hilltop Rose Garden
Being the last week of October, there weren’t many flowers, but going up to the garden provided excellent views over the historic center.
Back down to town!These cleverly angled stones assure that no one goes sliding down the hill in damp conditions.There’s quite the stream of water flowing through these open trenches on either side of the fountain.Basement barBears are symbolic of Bern, appearing on the coat of arms and all over the city. There’s even a bear pit on the eastern edge of the city, but it was empty on this visit. The bears were fortunately spending time in a more natural park environment instead of the stone pit.This graffiti prompted a bit of research to see if there are significant clashes over human rights in Switzerland. It turns out that same-sex marriage was legalized last year by referendum, and that law went into effect in July 2022. A lesser legal status and other rights, such as adoption, have been in place for longer. It was a relief to read that they’re making progress after seeing this message in bright blue. The paint did however look fresh enough to be confusing as to what other action people are asking for.Another odd message in graffiti: Free Lina. That references a Palestinian activist who was imprisoned in Israel. Without making a judgments about the fairness of her arrest and sentence, it’s hard not to wonder if writing “Free Lina” on a civic theatre in Switzerland is an effective means to reach the Israeli government.Soil and plants make frequent appearances on the tops of buildings. This was a particularly shocking example without drainage. They must have incredibly strong, well-sealed roofs.These gondolas have been converted to dinner tables and sit in the courtyard of a restaurant. What tourist could resist such a themed experience?The unfortunate part is that the gondolas are reserved for fondue, with no option to order from the full menu. When the door opened, the strong smell should have been accepted as a warning. The mess of pickled onions was offered in place of gherkins, but not liking pickling agents is universal. The unseasoned, boiled potatoes were, well, unseasoned boiled potatoes. The ratings were high at this place, so one can only assume that the rancid pot of cheesy, regurgitated bile is how Swiss fondue is supposed to taste. To add insult to injury, the mostly abandoned food rang up to ~$90. Americans should stick to Melting Pot at home, which is adjusted to local palettes. While on the subject, set extremely low expectations for Swiss food. The good meals in the country were had at Indian and Italian restaurants.Expensive and awful, but somehow still charming. It’s such a wonderful idea! A five-star lunch at an Italian restaurant assured that no one left starving, and made dining another mixed experience in the city.Off to Brussels (again) after an unexpectedly-long stop in Frankfurt
