Maastricht


After a short ride west from Valkenburg, the river known in Dutch as “de Maas” comes into view with a postcard-worthy look across the water at the (not-so-creatively named) city of Maastricht. While both sides have been developed, the historic center lies on the west bank, and that portion is ideal for a half-day trip.

It so happened that the Jeker Jazz festival was finishing up on Sunday, bathing the city in live performances that put a bounce in each step. The university-student population and constant motion of bicycles whizzing by add to the energy without being overwhelming. It remains peaceful, yet alive.

The riverbank offers an array of experiences, with “coffee shop” (they serve marijuana and reportedly no coffee) ships docked further north, a wonderful city park to the south, and picturesque skylines everywhere. Coming back into the city from the park, the preferred entry-point is Helpoort (literally “Hell gate”), the sole remaining city gate that dates back to the first half of the 13th century.

Amsterdam is the most famous city in the country, but it’s hard to imagine anything topping Maastricht in terms of scenery. The rest of the country is almost entirely flat, yet this enchanting city is nestled in a hilly region that’s beginning to explode with color as autumn sets in. The entire region is worth a visit. The locals are sometimes teased for their regional language and a dialect that’s been compared to lightly singing. It turns out they’ve just got a reason to be cheerful.

Photo Tour

Basilica of Our Lady
The Bishop’s Mill (de Bisschopsmolen)

This bakery sources ingredients locally and sustainably, even milling grains from nearby farmlands. In doing so, they share the tastes of Limburg, such as the Limburgse Vlaai pictured below, while supporting the local economy. A working mill is also on display for tourists and it was an extremely popular stop for a photo.

The unfortunate part of this visit was seeing the woman behind the counter scooping up an entire half pie when asked for a “piece.” It’s possible to sit down for an actual slice someplace next door, but when you already feel committed, and it’s only 7.5 EUR for the half, you end up carrying an awkwardly large box around the city for a while.

“Actually, it’s very simple. We bake it differently. You taste the difference. And together we make a difference.”
This is Limburgse Vlaai with a barely-sweetened filling of apricot and apple that lets the fruit come through. A woman at the bookstore (pictured below) coffee shop (actually coffee) was willing to take the slice that’s missing here, but the rest was still too much for one person. Admittedly, 80% of it disappeared.

What a wonderful location for a bookstore! The gorilla seems unhappy here though.
It’s easy to miss, but that’s an underground parking entrance at the end of the green field.
Presumably this staircase goes to the parking lot.
Helpoort (Hell Gate) – it may have earned the name while being used as a prison
This is one way to learn that “beaver” is “bever” in Dutch.
So. Many. Ducks.
A couple was making out behind this tree, making it a bit hard to get a better picture of Berenbank (bear bench) without making things too awkward.
Berenkuil (bear pit) – turned into a work of art in 2001 with a bunch of animal sculptures, including the penguin that follows, instead of being used to keep a bear captive
“The Peanut Butter Store” – it’s a wonder what sort of shops can stay in business
Maastricht: 52 beautiful photos and one ugly one. New socks can’t always handle two washes and two days of walking in Europe. At most, it lasted 21 miles.

Up Next: 3 Countries, 1 day

What’s better than three countries in one day? Three countries at once.

Drielandenpunt (three countries point) Twister
Right foot: the Netherlands. Left foot: Germany. Right hand: Belgium.

Beyond being a silly tourist for a moment to take this photo, the next stop was Aachen, Germany before landing in Robertville, Belgium for the night. For now, it’s off to sleep before the last half-day in Luxembourg.