Zermatt, Switzerland


Another few hours and multiple trains lead to the town of Zermatt, less than ten miles from the Italian border and the Matterhorn that lies along it. The village seemingly wouldn’t exist if it weren’t for the draw of the surrounding mountains. Everything is geared toward tourism, with clearly more hotel rooms than residences, and the streets in between lined with Swiss chocolate and watches.

Though Zermatt is already at over 5000 feet, skiers and sightseers may choose to ride the scenic Gornergrat Railway to ten thousand, or take a series of gondolas up to Glacier Paradise at over twelve. The intent was to take the train in the morning, but the weather had other ideas. Fog encased the area and it was difficult to see a building across town, let alone a distant mountain peak. The scenery was still wonderful, and the trip worthwhile, but it’s still disappointing to go so far to miss one of the most anticipated experiences. Departing earlier did mean more time in Bern, so it’s tough to complain.

Advice: Maybe reconsider an autumn trip. The leaves are nice, but the weather is unpredictable. Prices and availability are much better, yet it’s still expensive. There’s no escaping the fact that prices for everything in Switzerland are significantly higher than surrounding areas. This is one rare place where suffering the crowds and additional expense might be worth clear skies to tour the mountains.

Getting There

Taken in Spiez at one of several transfers – at least the weather was pleasant in the lowlands
Views From the Window

Two panes of glass, reflections, spots on the windows, and a bit of motion blur weren’t enough to spoil the views. Sure, the photo quality would be better without all of that, but the landscapes shine through.

As the terrain changed, so too did the train cars. Transit authorities have thoughtfully provided enormous windows to enjoy the ride.
Flowing water was a constant companion alongside the tracks.
Sheep and cattle are everywhere!
One of several glaciers that started turning up as the elevation increased
At higher elevations, the milky blue water became this shade of grey-brown.
In Zermatt
These small vehicles serve as the town’s taxis.
Looking left from the hotel balcony
Also from the balcony – As difficult as the Matterhorn was to see in person, it’s not even apparent that it’s in this image.

With a little digital magic, it’s easier to make out the enormous mountain disappearing into the fog. The weather only got worse, so vague outlines were as good as it got.

A vegetable garden sitting between houses, but unattached to any of them
This cat looks well-prepared for the snow.
Its attitude cooled, and after seeing a relaxed posture and some slow blinking, it seemed okay to at least lay a hand on a piece of wood nearby. Nope! That was met with a lightning-fast slap on the hand. At least the claws stayed in.
A neatly-arranged cemetery was a conspicuous sight just beyond most of the hotels.
This grave was eye-catching. On closer inspection, a New York native died at 17 while climbing in the area.
It’s slightly easier to make out the snowy base of the Matterhorn here.
Again with the marmot oil? *Shakes head in disapproval*

Somewhere in here there was a chocolate shop and a trip to a fantastic Indian restaurant, but the last photo in Zermatt ended up being morning coffee before departing to Bern.

They put milk in a molded chocolate cup!

On to Bern

After giving the skies an opportunity to clear, it was time to give up and depart just before 11. It won’t be going on the favorite-cities list, but Bern is lovely for a half day of sightseeing, and its status as a transit hub made it easy to catch a train to Brussels the next day.

~12 miles north of Zermatt – beautiful in a spooky sort of way, but terrible visibility